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Eat, Pray, Love and Cinemas of Ruin: 
Valuing Heritage and Memory in Changing Urban Landscapes

by Ishaan Barrett

It is one of those New York weeks that makes Wednesday feel like Friday; between two essays and a mountain of reading, the only thing I can think about is relaxing in front of my laptop with microwave popcorn and a movie. Eat, Pray, Love somehow—perhaps delightfully so—begins to play on my Netflix page and I decide to get lost in Julia Roberts’ transcontinental odyssey. After divorcing her husband, Liz—played by Roberts—begins an eight-month journey across three continents, finding herself and renewed vitality through religion, cuisine, and unexpected romance. Liz departs from New York City in the first leg of her trip and winds up in Italy; armed with a love of its language and culture, Liz approaches Italy with an eagerness sparked by her career as a writer. Despite the richness of the city, Liz is plagued by solitude, reconciling her newfound independence with a fierce sense of paralysis as she pursues new directions.

Liz begins to embrace the vibrancy of Italian life almost as soon as she arrives; she becomes lost in the luster of the city, the freedom of its inhabitants, and the richness of the surrounding culture. Halfway through her stay, Liz visits the Mausoleum of Augustus in Rome, a monument to the late Roman ruler and the site of his burial many millennia ago. She recalls the life she left behind in New York and reflects on the profound history of the Augusteum. Standing despite a legacy of violence, conquest, and upheaval, the Augusteum becomes a symbol of endurance and stability that contrasts the chaos of the city. For Liz, it is a lighthouse, a refuge in the disorder of her life, and a sanctuary of contemplation. 

It’s one of the quietest and loneliest places in Rome; the city has grown up around it over centuries. It feels like a precious wound, like a wound you won’t let go of because it hurts too good. We all want things to stay the same, [to] settle for living in misery because we’re afraid of change, of things crumbling to ruins. 

 

Then I looked around in this place, at the chaos it’s endured. The way it’s been adapted, burned, pillaged, then found a way to build itself back up again, and I was reassured. Maybe my life hasn’t been so chaotic, it’s the world that is and the only real trap is getting attached to any of it. Ruin is a gift. Ruin is the road to transformation. Even in this eternal city, the Augusteum showed me that we must always be prepared for endless waves of transformation. 

— Eat, Pray, Love, Digital Video (USA: Sony Pictures, 2010), 50:11.

 

Liz—and perhaps the scriptwriters—get a lot right and a few things wrong in this monologue; while characterizing the Augusteum as a “wound” speaks more to Liz’s mindset rather than a general aesthetic, she is right: “ruin” is the path to transformation. Though we might choose to define “ruin” differently depending on context, Liz speaks to a larger, more dynamic conception of urban heritage. In the place where the haste of the city ends, historic memory begins; in sites of antiquity—and often destruction—we find repositories of recollection, legacy, and inspiration. 

The Mausoleum of Augustus (Augusteum) pictured within the larger city of Rome.

Figure 1: The Mausoleum of Augustus (Augusteum) pictured within the larger city of Rome. While buildings have cropped up around the structure, the site endures as a site of history and memory despite the steady appearance of modern city structures. (28-23 B.C. Rome: Mausoleum of Augustus: aerial view: Mausoleum and surrounding buildings; photo courtesy of ARTSTOR included under the Terms and Conditions of Use.)

Through a visual analysis of Rome and its historic sites, it is clear that Liz’s remarks are spot on. The landscape of the city has grown around and between sites like the Augusteum; it grounds the city in history and the legacy of empire in which it is situated (figure 1). Away from its borders, cars, streets, and agglomerated buildings establish the modern ethos of Rome as a global city, inviting visitors like Liz who seek new frontiers in its built environment. How then can such places be considered “wounds” of the city? When such value can be taken from these places as urban heritage, should we classify these areas of “ruin” and history as “wounds?” I believe the answer to this question lies beyond what any single person can perceive of the city and its inhabitants; Liz is daunted by the grandeur of the Augusteum but is biased by the pain of her divorce. Whether or not spaces like the Augusteum are considered “wounds” of the city depends entirely on the way city inhabitants embrace or reject the urban heritage within historic sites. 

In recent years, the city of Rome has decided to rebuild the Augusteum; beginning in 2013, the restoration project took massive steps to allow public viewing of the edifice to commence (Fundazione Tim and ROMA, n.d.). Rome has decided conclusively to display the “wounds” of the city openly, inviting all members of the public to peruse its history and the violence therein. It might not be a beautiful or even appealing history, but the act of restoration does not classify the Augusteum as an injury of the larger city: restoration and healing can be necessary with or without a wound. Instead, Rome is now illuminating a conflict from hundreds of years in its past, asking its citizenry to critique its pride and embrace of imperialism; it decisively avoids erasing history. We might choose to bandage a wound to shield it from the world, but Rome has done differently. Liz is right: embracing sites of ruin and the notion of urban heritage is the path to transformation. 

Beyond the Roman city and the Augusteum, sites outside of Europe take a similar approach to embracing urban heritage and difficult histories. In India, Hyderabad is a place where the vibrancy of urban life meets “ruin.” Chowmahalla Palace stands within the mosaic of Hyderabad as a reminder of its colonial past; formerly the residence of the Nizam,—the hereditary ruler of Hyderabad—the Palace transposes the oppression of the British Raj onto the modern city.

Hyderabad is ripe with diversity and complexity. Though it is situated within the south of India, the city is home to residents from all over South Asia—from the Middle East to parts of Nepal and beyond. Over many years, the city has poured much time and effort into restoring the palace, both as a center for tourism and as an important historical site. This history is deeply complex and wrought with a legacy of conflict that has defined the experience of Indian citizens and members of the Indian diaspora. Like Rome, Chowmahalla endures as urban heritage and memory; it asks city dwellers to grapple with India’s history of colonialism and British imperialism that has left indelible wounds on its people. But these places can be sites of celebration and renewal as well. We need not hide behind the wounds of history to survive; by honoring struggle, we triumph over the narratives that define these “ruins” as humiliating or wrong.

Over this past summer, my family and I took a trip to see Chowmahalla Palace in its entirety. We explored the splendorous throne room, the lively palace grounds, and the remarkable royal car collection from long ago. Perhaps against my better judgment, my brother and I took a photo together on the grounds of Chowmahalla. My mom gently instructed us to be respectful of the space and to participate in photography not as tourists, but as Indian Americans returning to a place that has always been a bit distant. My brother is not just my sibling; he is my twin. And having grown accustomed to each other, we could not help but laugh and celebrate our new connection to the place we had not seen in many years. In our photo together, he and I are smiling and laughing with each other, celebrating our newfound connection to the heritage of my mom’s urban home. Not all history can or should be celebrated in this way; but when our embrace of history warrants something more than solemnity, I offer celebration as the best alternative. Be connected to and vivacious within the gift of these urban “ruins.” 

Image of the stone courtyard and palace grounds in front of the main complex.

Figure 2: Image of the stone courtyard and palace grounds in front of the main complex; sun drapes made of plant fibers are drawn in front of the building to shield the walls from sun damage. At center left, scaffolding for ongoing restoration projects is visible. (Photo courtesy of the author and the author’s family.)

 

One cold night in New York, I stumbled across Eat, Pray, Love with the desire to relax and unwind. The movie instead bore unique insights into the way history, heritage, and the urban collide within a single space, creating a place that people across cultures can relate to. Beyond redefining how the “ruins” of a city should function as memory, the movie asks us to consider how we—as urban or suburban residents—value heritage and place-making as a function of memory. Do all places need to be restored and monumentally transformed to honor history? Are there places where we should be more critical? Yes. I do not suppose that every history deserves restoration and celebration blindly; nor do I assume that histories should be erased writ large. Destroying or paving over city ruins eliminates the chance for us to problematize or even uncover new complexities within our human history. In fact, the process of grappling with these ideas is exactly what we need now more than ever. 

We must always ask ourselves how the built environment honors what we consider to be “ruins,” “wounds,” heritage, and our history. Images of our past—in monuments, museums, and memorials—deserve scrutiny and speculation. But also, perhaps in unexpected ways, we should consider how to celebrate what we can, to connect over the heritage that ties us to any place. Only then, transformation begins. 


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Fair Use Statement

All images not provided by the author have been obtained and reproduced in accordance with the ARTSTOR Terms and Conditions of Use: https://about.jstor.org/terms/#content-use. Digital copies are available from the author upon request.  

 

Appendices

A: Secondary Images of Interest

B: Image Bibliography

Appendix A: Secondary Images of Interest

Appendix B: Image Bibliography

 

25 BCE. Mausoleum of Augustus. https://library-artstor-org.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/asset/SCALA_ARCHIVES_10310840710

 

28-23 B.C. Rome: Mausoleum of Augustus: aerial view: Mausoleum and surrounding buildings. https://library-artstor-org.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/asset/ARTSTOR_103_41822003486915.

 

28-23 B.C. Rome: Mausoleum of Augustus: general view. https://library-artstor-org.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/asset/ARTSTOR_103_41822003486907

 

28-23 B.C. Rome: Mausoleum of Augustus: reconstruction drawing. https://library-artstor-org.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/asset/ARTSTOR_103_41822003486972

 

28-23 B.C. Rome: Mausoleum of Augustus: view from SW. https://library-artstor-org.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/asset/ARTSTOR_103_41822003486865

 

Fundazione Tim, and ROMA. “The Mausoleum of Augustus.” The Mausoleum of Augustus, n.d. https://www.mausoleodiaugusto.it/en/the-restoration-project/.


Photographer: Timothy J. Moore. 12/16/2001. Interior of Mausoleum of Augustus, Rome. color photographs. https://library-artstor-org.ezproxy.cul.columbia.edu/asset/SS37414_37414_38035682

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